GM-416-8B MLTL Corner Cabinet

[VolvoHeretic]

Sri, you only need three tools, a router, a table saw with a couple of roller stands, and a belt sander. AND you need to watch the PBS show with the bald guy from the routerworkshop.com.Any Journeyman carpenter who can install cabinets and trim should be able to help you and make sure you don't cut your fingers off.

Trial cut the angles with scrap wood on the table saw and then make your final cuts. I would glue up everything with PL400 construction adhesive and screws , let dry and belt sand every thing flush. Then veneer with your choice of wood. Everyone need a hobby that does not include work or chores and speaker building is as good as any.

[jocelys1]

If the slat design is hard to implement, is this an option. The 'shaded' part is solid wood, more like a set of braces, around which you can use good ply to curve the rear of the design.

Just a thought really.

[VolvoHeretic]

If the slat design is hard to implement, is this an option. The 'shaded' part is solid wood, more like a set of braces, around which you can use good ply to curve the rear of the design.

Just a thought really.

You could glue up ribs from mitered straight 2x's and cut into a radius or cut the radius into 3/4" plywood and glue two together for each rib, and then use bending plywood and use as many thin plys (1/4", 3/8") as it takes to build up to 3/4" using wood glue applied with a notch trowel and cinch everything together with tie down straps. Sounds like more work though.

[VolvoHeretic]

Ok, so I get 4.9 sq. ft. area with wood bracing x 5' interior height = 24.5 cu. ft. I think I remember the 15" woofer quoted at 0.5 cu. ft. so about 24.0 cu. ft. interior volume.

I have revolved what I think is the 604B internal volume I created after tracing a really bad pdf diagram of the speaker, but this old version of AutoCAD I am using at home won't give me the volume, I will have to open this drawing in a newer version at work tomorrow to find out.

[GM]

FYI, the Vid spec on the far right is the amount of volume the driver takes up in a cab: http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet.net/Thiele-Small.html

GM

[VolvoHeretic]

FYI, the Vid spec on the far right is the amount of volume the driver takes up in a cab: http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet.net/Thiele-Small.html

GM

Thanks GM, but your link is busted.

So, after rereading the first post again, and with an overall height of 40" and an internal height of 38.5", and with my bracing so far, I wind up with an internal net volume of 23.69 cu. ft. I will have to increase the speaker depth a little.

GM, care to critic my design?

[srivenkat]

Thanks GM, but your link is busted.

So, after rereading the first post again, and with an overall height of 40" and an internal height of 38.5", and with my bracing so far, I wind up with an internal net volume of 23.69 cu. ft. I will have to increase the speaker depth a little.

GM, care to critic my design?

VolvoHeretic,

Please note from the first post, the dims (id) are Volume = ~25.25 ft^3 gross, so ~24 ft^3 net MLTL
L = 58.5"
W = 38.5"
Horn down = 4.75"
Driver down = 22"
Therefore horn/driver ctc spacing = 17.25"
Drivers - GPA 416-8B, GPA 802-8G, Altec 811B horn, GPA N1200-8A XOver (or other passive XO)

Thank you,
Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Thanks Sri, with 26.5" depth, I get exactly 24.39 cu ft. I just need to know what the volume of the 811B is.

[jocelys1]

Aren't the circular braces /frame easier to do. The ply would bend easier wouldn't it. This is what I found in my build of the A7 horn.

[GM]

'Horses for courses' Again, for a high aspect ratio cab we want to use bracing that minimally impedes TL pipe action to maintain high acoustic efficiency whereas curved bracing on the backside of a horn flare 'demands' curved bracing at barest minimum.

GM